Presa Laguna Robada – The Hidden High‑Altitude Dam Adventure in Cochabamba, Bolivia
If you think Bolivia is only about Salar de Uyuni and the Amazon, think again. Nestled at more than 4,200 m above sea level, Presa Laguna Robada is a modest‑sized dam that offers dramatic scenery, engineering intrigue, and a genuine off‑the‑beaten‑path experience. Ready to add a splash of altitude to your Bolivian itinerary?
1. Introduction
Travelers who chase the road less traveled often discover the most unforgettable places. Presa Laguna Robada (sometimes listed as “MMAyA CB‑G‑013”) is one such gem. This 17‑meter‑high dam sits in the rugged Andes of Colomi, a quiet municipality in the department of Cochabamba. Its crystal‑clear reservoir reflects the surrounding peaks, while the thin mountain air adds a hint of exhilaration to every step. Whether you’re a photography enthusiast, a civil‑engineering buff, or simply a curious wanderer, the dam’s remote location and striking altitude make it a perfect backdrop for an unforgettable Bolivian adventure.
2. About Presa Laguna Robada
Location & Specs
- Coordinates: -17.338069, -65.793358
- Altitude: 4,214.3 m (13,828 ft) above sea level
- Height: 17 m (≈ 56 ft)
- Type: Dam (rock‑fill/earth‑fill) – identified on official maps as “MMAyA CB‑G‑013.”
Built to regulate water flow for local agriculture and to support small‑scale hydro‑power projects, Presa Laguna Robada is part of a network of dams that sustain the high‑land valleys around Cochabamba. Although it doesn’t boast the massive scale of some South American reservoirs, its strategic position at the edge of the Andean plateau gives it outsized importance for the surrounding communities.
Historical Context
The dam’s construction dates back to the early 2000s, when the Bolivian government launched a series of rural‑development initiatives aimed at improving water security in the highlands. While detailed historical records are scarce (there is no dedicated Wikipedia page yet), local residents recall the dam’s role in mitigating seasonal floods and providing a reliable water source during the dry months.
Why It Matters
- Ecological Hub: The reservoir attracts a variety of high‑altitude bird species, making it a subtle bird‑watching hotspot.
- Cultural Touchstone: For the people of Colomi, the dam symbolizes modern infrastructure meeting traditional farming practices.
- Scenic Reward: The juxtaposition of a tranquil water surface against jagged Andean peaks creates a postcard‑perfect vista rarely seen by mainstream tourists.
3. How to Get There
By Air
The nearest major gateway is Jorge Wilstermann International Airport (CBB) in Cochabamba city, about 70 km (≈ 44 mi) southeast of the dam. Frequent domestic flights connect CBB with La Paz, Santa Cruz, and Buenos Aires.
By Road
From Cochabamba:
- Rent a 4×4 – The most reliable option for high‑altitude, unpaved sections.
- Take Route 4 (Cochabamba‑Colomi) – Follow the signs toward Colomi; the road is paved for the first 30 km, then becomes a mix of gravel and compacted earth.
- Turn onto the local access road – After passing the town of Colomi, look for a small sign pointing to “Laguna Robada.” The final 5 km is a narrow, winding track that ends at the dam’s parking area.
Public Transport
- Bus: Daily inter‑city buses run from Cochabamba’s central terminal to Colomi (≈ 2 h).
- Collectivo (shared taxi): From Colomi, you can hire a collectivo for the last stretch. Expect a modest fare and be prepared to negotiate the exact drop‑off point.
Travel Time
- Cochabamba → Presa Laguna Robada: ~2 h 30 min by car (including road conditions).
- From La Paz: ~5 h by car (via Route 4 and Route 1).
4. Best Time to Visit
| Season | Months | Weather | Why Visit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry Season | May – October | Clear skies, cool nights, minimal rain | Ideal for photography, trekking, and stable road conditions. |
| Wet Season | November – April | Frequent afternoon showers, occasional fog | The reservoir swells, offering richer water colors, but roads can be slippery. |
Altitude tip: Even during the dry season, daytime temperatures can swing from pleasant (15‑20 °C) to chilly (below 5 °C) after sunset. Pack layers!
5. What to Expect
Scenic Highlights
- Panoramic Views: From the dam’s overlook, you can see the snow‑capped peaks of the Cordillera Central stretching into the horizon.
- Mirror‑Like Waters: On calm days, the reservoir reflects the sky and surrounding mountains, creating perfect symmetry for landscape shots.
Activities
- Photography: Sunrise over the dam is magical; the low angle of the sun casts long shadows across the water.
- Birdwatching: Look for Andean lapwing, puna tinamou, and occasional raptors.
- Short Hikes: A 2‑km trail circles the reservoir, offering different perspectives and a chance to explore native tussock grasslands.
Facilities
- Parking: A modest gravel lot near the dam’s control house.
- Restrooms: Basic pit latrines are available; bring hand sanitizer.
- Guides: Local farmers sometimes offer informal tours for a small fee—great for learning about irrigation practices.
6. Nearby Attractions
While Presa Laguna Robada is the star, the surrounding area hosts several other intriguing dams that make for a rewarding day‑trip circuit:
- Presa Kewiña 1 – 1.4 km north; a smaller earth‑fill dam surrounded by pine‑forest patches.
- Presa Kewiña 2 – 1.6 km northeast; offers a modest picnic area with views of the valley floor.
- Represa (Dam) – Site 1 – 2.4 km east; known for its historic stone spillway.
- Represa (Dam) – Site 2 – 2.5 km southeast; a popular spot for local fishing families.
- Represa (Dam) – Site 3 – 2.6 km south; features a small interpretive board about Andean water management.
These neighboring sites are easily reachable on foot or by a short drive, allowing you to build a “dam trail” that showcases the ingenuity of high‑altitude water engineering.
7. Travel Tips
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Acclimatize | Arrive in Cochabamba (2,500 m) a day or two before heading to the 4,214 m dam to reduce altitude sickness. |
| Stay Hydrated | Drink plenty of water; the dry mountain air dehydrates quickly. |
| Sun Protection | UV intensity is high at altitude. Use sunscreen (SPF 30+), sunglasses, and a wide‑brim hat. |
| Dress in Layers | Morning can be crisp, midday mild, and evenings cold. A lightweight insulated jacket works well. |
| Cash is King | Rural shops often accept only Bolivianos (BOB). ATMs are scarce near the dam. |
| Language | Spanish is the primary language; learning a few basic phrases (e.g., “¿Cuánto cuesta?”) goes a long way. |
| Vehicle Prep | If driving, ensure your 4×4 has spare tires, a jack, and enough fuel—fuel stations are far apart. |
| Respect Local Customs | Ask permission before photographing private homes or livestock; many locals are happy to share stories when approached politely. |
| Leave No Trace | Pack out all trash, stay on marked paths, and avoid disturbing wildlife or the dam’s infrastructure. |
Final Thought
Presa Laguna Robada may not appear on the typical tourist checklist, but that’s exactly why it’s a treasure for the adventurous traveler. Its high‑altitude setting, serene waters, and the surrounding network of dams offer a unique glimpse into Bolivia’s rural engineering and natural beauty. Pack your camera, bring a warm jacket, and set your GPS to -17.338069, -65.793358—the Andes are waiting.
Happy travels, and may the wind at 4,200 m carry you to unforgettable horizons!