Citerne de l'Escandaou – A Hidden Spring Oasis in the Heart of Provence
Discover the quiet charm of an ancient stone cistern perched at 910 m above sea level, tucked away in the rolling hills of Plan‑d’Aups‑Sainte‑Baume. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker, a water‑loving explorer, or simply chasing off‑the‑beaten‑path French scenery, Citerne de l'Escandaou is a must‑see stop on your Provence‑Alpes‑Côte d’Azur itinerary.
1. Introduction
Imagine stepping onto a moss‑dappled plateau, the scent of pine and lavender drifting on a crisp mountain breeze. Ahead, a low‑lying stone basin—Citerne de l'Escandaou—holds a mirror‑smooth pool that reflects the sky above. This modest spring, barely marked on conventional maps, offers a rare glimpse into the region’s historic water‑management practices and a perfect spot for a quiet pause amid your Provençal adventure.
If you love discovering hidden natural gems, sipping fresh mountain water (with proper filtration, of course), and immersing yourself in the rugged beauty of southern France, keep reading. We’ll guide you through everything you need to know to make the most of this secluded spring.
2. About Citerne de l'Escandaou
What is it?
Citerne de l'Escandaou is an ancient dry‑stone cistern—a traditional Provençal technique where stones are carefully stacked without mortar to create a water‑holding structure. In early January 2015, the basin filled “to the brim,” turning the stone cradle into a natural spring. The water is stagnant, so visitors should bring a portable filter or purification tablets before drinking.
Historical Context
Dry‑stone cisterns have been a cornerstone of rural water supply in the Mediterranean for centuries, especially in mountainous zones where rainfall is intermittent. While the exact construction date of Citerne de l'Escandaou is unknown, its design reflects the timeless Provençal craft of using locally sourced stone to capture and store precious water.
Why It Matters
Beyond its practical origins, the cistern stands as a quiet testament to the region’s relationship with the land. At 43.309070 N, 5.697780 E, the spring sits at an altitude of 910 m, offering panoramic views of the Plan‑d’Aups‑Sainte‑Baume plateau and the surrounding Alpes de Haute Provence. For hikers, photographers, and nature lovers, it’s a perfect spot to rest, refuel, and reflect.
3. How to Get There
By Car
- From Marseille – Take the A7 north toward Aix‑en‑Provence, then follow signs for A51 toward Manosque. Exit at D5 (direction Plan‑d’Aups‑Sainte‑Baume).
- From Nice – Follow the A8 west, then the A8/A50 toward Draguignan. Continue on the D5 after the Saint‑Cyr‑sur‑Mer exit.
Both routes lead to the small town of Plan‑d’Aups‑Sainte‑Baume (postal code 83440). Parking is available at the Plan‑d’Aups municipal parking lot just off the D5.
By Public Transport
- Train: The nearest SNCF station is Aubagne, about 35 km away. From there, catch a regional bus (line 500) to Plan‑d’Aups‑Sainte‑Baume.
- Bus: Local TER buses run from Aix‑en‑Provence and Draguignan to the town center.
Walking / Hiking to the Spring
From the town center, follow the sentier balisé (marked trail) heading north-west toward the Côte des Gorges. The trail is signposted with the “Citerne de l'Escandaou” symbol (a stone basin). The hike is approximately 2 km (round‑trip) with an elevation gain of ~150 m, taking about 45 minutes each way.
Key coordinates for GPS navigation: 43.309070, 5.697780.
4. Best Time to Visit
| Season | Weather | Why Visit | Tips |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (Mar‑May) | Mild temperatures (12‑20 °C), blooming lavender and wildflowers | Ideal for wildflower photography and comfortable hiking | Wear waterproof shoes; early spring may still be chilly at 910 m |
| Summer (Jun‑Aug) | Warm days (25‑30 °C) but cooler evenings | Longer daylight hours for extended hikes | Bring sun protection; water may be warmer, so bring extra filtration |
| Autumn (Sep‑Nov) | Pleasant temps (15‑22 °C), golden foliage | Fewer crowds, vibrant colors | Check trail conditions after rain |
| Winter (Dec‑Feb) | Cold, occasional snow at higher elevations | The cistern can be spectacular when surrounded by frost | Dress in layers; the spring may be partially frozen, but the stone structure is still visible |
Overall recommendation: Late spring (April‑May) offers the perfect blend of comfortable weather, blooming scenery, and manageable trail conditions.
5. What to Expect
The Setting
Upon arrival, you’ll see a low, rectangular stone basin framed by low scrub and a scattering of pine needles. The water sits still, reflecting the sky like a natural mirror. Around the cistern, you’ll notice dry‑stone walls that have weathered centuries of rain and wind, giving the site a timeless feel.
Sensory Experience
- Sight: The contrast between the gray stone, the deep green of surrounding vegetation, and the clear blue of the water. On sunny days, the surface sparkles like glass.
- Sound: A gentle hush broken only by distant bird calls and the occasional rustle of wind through the pine.
- Touch: The stone is cool underfoot; the water is fresh but may feel slightly mineral‑rich.
Activities
- Short Hike: The 2 km loop is perfect for a leisurely walk or a quick photo break.
- Photography: Early morning light creates dramatic shadows on the stone walls.
- Water Sampling: If you plan to drink, bring a portable filter (e.g., LifeStraw) or purification tablets; the water is stagnant and may contain microbes.
6. Nearby Attractions
While Citerne de l'Escandaou is the star of the day, the surrounding plateau hosts several other natural springs and fountains that make excellent side‑trips:
| Attraction | Distance | Type | Quick Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fontaine Paul Ruat | 1.3 km | Spring | Small stone fountain, easy to combine in a single hike |
| Source du Cros | 1.4 km | Spring | Secluded, surrounded by aromatic rosemary |
| Unnamed Fountain | 2.3 km | Fountain | A rustic water source with a shaded picnic spot |
| Source de Saint‑Pons | 3.4 km | Spring | Slightly larger basin, popular with locals for livestock watering |
| Source des Encanaux | 4.5 km | Spring | Offers a gentle cascade, perfect for a cooling dip (water still requires treatment) |
All links lead to Google Maps searches for the respective names, making navigation a breeze.
7. Travel Tips
- Bring a Water Filter – The spring’s water is stagnant; a lightweight filter or purification tablets are essential if you plan to drink.
- Footwear – Sturdy, waterproof hiking shoes protect against slippery stones and occasional mud.
- Pack Light, Pack Smart – A daypack with a reusable water bottle, snacks, sunscreen, and a light jacket (even in summer, evenings can be cool at altitude).
- Respect the Site – The dry‑stone cistern is a cultural heritage feature. Avoid climbing on the stones or littering.
- Check Trail Conditions – In winter, snow or ice may make the path hazardous. Local tourist offices in Plan‑d’Aups can provide up‑to‑date information.
- Timing – Arrive early in the morning to enjoy the spring in soft light and avoid any afternoon heat.
- Photography Gear – A wide‑angle lens captures the basin’s depth, while a polarizing filter reduces glare on the water surface.
- Combine Visits – Plan a circular route that includes Fontaine Paul Ruat and Source du Cros for a 5‑km loop, perfect for a half‑day outing.
Final Thoughts
Citerne de l'Escandaou may not have a Wikipedia page, but its quiet charm, historic stonework, and pristine mountain setting make it a hidden gem worth seeking out. Whether you’re charting a Provence hiking itinerary, hunting for authentic French countryside experiences, or simply craving a moment of solitude beside a natural spring, this modest cistern delivers.
Pack your boots, bring a filter, and let the gentle murmur of the water guide you into the heart of Plan‑d’Aups‑Sainte‑Baume—one of Provence‑Alpes‑Côte d’Azur’s best‑kept secrets. Happy travels!